| Score: |
91 WA.
"The wine simply labeled 2006 Riesling Kabinett represents the season's earliest picking, in the porphyric Stromberg vineyard, on the eastern edge of Bockenau. Scents of nectarine, melon, black currant, and flowers suggest something like a hybrid of Schlossbockelheim Riesling (featuring the same soil) with Sauvignon Blanc. This delivers juicy, satisfyingly ripe melon and nectarine fruit, backed by quite high residual sugar, but correspondingly light in weight (at 7.5% alcohol) and with efficacious, lemony acidity and tingling (porphyric?) pungency. A supremely succulent and refreshing back end introduces salty, smoky mineral traces. Once again, Tim Frohlich demonstrates that the Prum-like archetype of Mosel Kabinett can be successfully, indeed masterfully executed in Bockenau. The high CO2 and yeasty aura of spontaneous fermentation that are part of this model apply here, too, and this will be capable of delivering pleasure for at least another dozen years, but more likely impossible to resist before then." Wine Advocate #179, Oct 2008 |