Score: |
93 VM. "An alluring freesia-like perfume and cooling scents of green herbs would have had me guessing that this was Heiligenstein. Intimations of black tea, ginger and pepper translate, on a glossy, glycerol-rich, lusciously citric and peachy palate, into an invigorating picture of piquancy, cut and clarity. A similarly stimulating hint of caramelized parsnip puts one in mind of Grüner Veltliner. This finishes with memorable vibrancy and verve not to mention sheer persistence. As with some other vintage exemplars, it is an unusually forward Gaisberg, and happily the perfume and dynamic complexity it exhibited from cask in the weeks before bottling hasn’t dimmed." Vinous, Nov 2015 |