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94 WA.
"A “one star” 2005 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Auslese* smells of lime and honey along with a smoky, charred pungency that seems to come in equal measure from botrytis and from Schlossberg terroir. In the mouth the wine is strikingly voluminous, rich and enveloping, featuring baked, caramelized apple. The caramel apple is set spinning by a current of electric juice from an ample stock of citrus and wicks off the honey of botrytis in slick, palate-slathering abundance. The finish is on the one hand overtly honeyed and botrytis-inflected yet on the other brisk and lime-fruited. Some may find this wine – with the soul of a Beerenauslese and the brightness of a Eiswein – disconcertingly exaggerated, or even discordant, but I find it stimulating and amazing. How will it behave when it finally settles down?" Wine Advocate #169, Feb 2007 |