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94 VM. "Nigl’s “Privat” bottlings have long originated in the same steeply terraced Urgestein vineyard rising from the Krems below Senftenberg, but recently he has begun naming it on the label in keeping with its official classification as an Erste Lage. Rhubarb, lime, honeydew melon and grapefruit infused with green herbs make for an infectiously juicy and cooling as well as slippery glycerol-rich palate impression. But the finish delivers an interactive complexity and palpably extract-rich sense of grip that took me by surprise and left my salivary glands twitching. Amid bittersweet crunch of melon rind, nuttiness of artichoke and glowing piquancy of lime peel I found it impossible to banish an impression of crystalline mineral matter impinging with sleet-like tactile intensity on my soft palate." Vinous, Nov 2015 |