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95 WA.
"The Christoffel 2004 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese** is, as usual, designated with two stars to preserve its rightful place in any tasters’ imaginary pecking-orders, otherwise it could as easily be the “no star” Treppchen Auslese, seeing that it is the only one. Aromas of sassafras, lemon oil, and honey lead into a palate of impressive density and vivid brightness, featuring sassafras, candied lemon, grilled pineapple, honey, and toasted walnuts. Here is a wine that exhibits the essence of tiny-berried concentration (with only a quarter to a third botrytis-affected berries) and almost implacable density. Yet it remains so engagingly juicy and refreshing, so brightly, lusciously citric, and so intricate in its interplay of fruit, mineral and botrytis flavors as to be utterly compelling in both its complexity and its sheer drinkability. “This was a perfect year,” says Christoffel “to let the fermentations run spontaneously and free” even at this level of ripeness “because there were plenty of healthy berries and no wet botrytis.” Tasting is believing." Wine Advocate #163, Feb 2006 |