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97 WA.
"The 2018 St Henri Shiraz is a terrific effort, perhaps rivaling the top-flight wines under this label in 1976 and 1986. Remarkably fine and silky in texture yet simultaneously dense and concentrated, it showcases the amazing fruit harvested in 2018. Boysenberry, mulberry and mocha shadings all swirl together effortlessly in a whorl of full-bodied elegance, finishing long and effortless. Mainly Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, it includes smaller amounts of fruit from Port Lincoln, Robe, Padthaway, Clare Valley and the Adelaide Hills, all aged 12 months in large old wooden vats. Penfolds Chief Winemaker Peter Gago had a prior career as a math teacher, which no doubt has served him well during a pandemic filled with endless tastings in front of an inexpressive camera. He was in fine form when we connected via videoconference on July 1 for a quick run-through of the company's newest releases. Because of time constraints, we only tasted some of the wines ‘together,’ with me completing the rest of the lineup the following day. At my request, we started with the Chardonnays, which I think have shown remarkable improvement over the past decade or so. Gago came close to admitting as much of Yattarna, saying, ‘Pre-2000s, they didn't go the distance we hoped. But we're pouring the 2008s now and loving them.’ The goal with Yattarna has become, he said, ‘Pristine, beautifully framed fruit. We're not after artifact, we just want purity—but we don't want simplicity. We want layers of flavor, that length. Balance is really what it's all about.’ While not everyone will (or can) get on board to spend $150 for a bottle of Yattarna, readers shouldn't overlook the Bin 311 Chardonnay, which incorporates numerous lots that were culled from Yattarna and retails for a much more competitive $40. On the red wine side of the ledger, most of the new releases are from the 2019 vintage. While it may not quite equal the heights of 2018, Gago said, ‘It was a good solid vintage for us. There was a bit of heat, but not like ’20 or ’08. Only a handful of 40 degrees Celsius-plus days, some rains.’ Standouts include the (unavailable in the U.S.) Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz, the Bin 798 RWT Shiraz and the Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon. Budget-minded shoppers may want to try the Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, which, like the Bin 311 Chardonnay, represents a solid value at $40. From earlier vintages, fans of the style will want to stock up on the 2018 St Henri Shiraz, which is truly a prodigious effort. I think it even exceeds the quality of the 2017 Grange, which is a super wine but a not-so-super Grange. A bit lighter than typical, Gago described the vintage as being, ‘about berry fruit, not that savory.’ It’s only the seventh vintage of Grange to be 100% Shiraz, and is almost all from Barossa (86%), with the balance coming from McLaren Vale. Finally, I would be remiss not to mention two new red wines making their debut from the 2018 vintage. Named 802.A Superblend and 802.B Superblend, these are Cabernet-Shiraz wines aimed at the luxury market and packaged accordingly, in heavyset bottles with enormous punts. The 802.A was matured in American oak and includes roughly two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, while 802.B went into French oak and is only 55% Cabernet. Collectors for whom money is no object will no doubt enjoy comparing and contrasting them over the next several decades." Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate Interim, Jul 2021 |