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94 WA. "The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is more reserved than the precocious Valmur, unfurling in the glass with notions of honeyed citrus fruit, white currants, beeswax and green apples. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with good concentration, broad structural shoulders and excellent cut, concluding with a saline finish. For more information about Romain Collet and the 37-hectare domaine over which he presides, readers are directed to my commentary in Issue 238. His 2017s, tasted from bottle at the domaine, were showing well, the vintage seeming well suited to the fleshy, textural style he favors. He told me that his 2018s retained interesting acidity and tension despite the warmth of the harvest and that they are quite concentrated despite the year's generous yields. I'll taste them on my next visit to the region." Wine Advocate #244, Aug 2019 |