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93 WA. "Collet's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is now in bottle, and it's easier to understand than the single-barrel sample I tried last year. Bursting with aromas of citrus blossom, peaches and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a saline, aromatic finish. From vines planted in 1972, it's an unusually musky, exotic expression of Valmur, and readers looking for a more austere, tensile vision of Chablis will find it disconcerting. For more information about Romain Collet and the 37-hectare domaine over which he presides, readers are directed to my commentary in Issue 238. His 2017s, tasted from bottle at the domaine, were showing well, the vintage seeming well suited to the fleshy, textural style he favors. He told me that his 2018s retained interesting acidity and tension despite the warmth of the harvest and that they are quite concentrated despite the year's generous yields. I'll taste them on my next visit to the region." Wine Advocate #244, Aug 2019 |