Score: |
90 VM. "Pale straw-yellow with some golden tones. Captivating, highly nuanced aromas of lemon zest, tangerine and white flowers complicated by strong mineral and chalky notes. Shows bracing acidity and real structure in the mouth, with a piquant lemony saltiness. This fascinating wine, one of Italy's most interesting whites, is usually better after two or three years in the bottle and can age up to a decade. With time it typically develops an uncanny bouquet of terpenes and other aromas that call to mind a riesling trocken from Germany, but with less obvious fruity acidity and a stronger herbal character. This estate has done more for Sicilian native varieties than any other. If carricante and nerello mascalese are becoming well-known today, it is due to Benanti's pioneering efforts and the dedication and talent of their winemaker, Salvo Foti, who is enamored of mountain viticulture. Also tasted: 2003 Caselle Etna Bianco, 2002 Edelmio Sicilia Bianco." Ian d'Agata, Vinous.com, Jul 2005 |