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93+ ST.
"Very reticent nose dominated by citrus peel and stony minerality. Tightly wound and high-pitched, with penetrating acidity giving a steely spine to the mid-palate. Offers a compelling combination of silky texture and piquant energy. A great village wine with a knockout rising finish that's almost painful today. I would not be at all surprised if this wine eventually merited an even higher score. Jean-Marc Roulot compares his young 2011 to the estate's 2007s. He was among the earliest pickers of the top producers I visit, beginning on August 24 (vs. August 25 in 2003). The crus are now in the 12.2% to 12.9% range without chaptalization. Following the malos, which were mostly finished by the end of February, acidity levels are around 4.5 or 4.6 grams per liter, which Roulot described as lower than those of 2010. But the pHs are actually also a bit lower in 2011, he added: about 3.1, vs. 3.15 for the previous year. Roulot had been doing a lot of bâtonnage, the last stirring about 12 days before my visit. ‘The wines needed enriching to support their acidity,’ he explained. ‘They weren't monsters at the beginning but they will age well.’" Stephen Tanzer, Vinous.com, Sep 2012 |