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The February 2024 Auction: Part 3

Auction # 802 | View Auction Schedule and Details
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Auction Ends: 2/15/2024 6:00:00 PM PST

Lot #228. Hubert Lamy Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Haute Densité 2018

Description: Consists of 1 Bottle, 0.75L
Score: 96-98 WA.
"A candidate for the title of white wine of the vintage in Burgundy this year is Lamy's incredible 2018 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru Haute Densité. Unfurling in the glass with a profound bouquet of citrus oil, clear honey, fresh pastry, mandarin oil and dried white flowers, it's full-bodied, ineffably complete and multidimensional. Its caressingly satiny attack segues into a bottomless mid-palate that displays striking concentration without weight, framed by chalky dry extract. Long and resonant, this is a formidable achievement from a great vigneron at the peak of his powers. The 2018 vintage has turned out brilliantly at this address, and I run the risk of exhausting superlatives if I attempt to articulate just how much I admire these wines. In 2018, yields averaged around 50 hectoliters per hectare—similar to what was achieved in 2013 and 2014—and Lamy picked over the course of 20 days, saying that rapidly ripening sites tended to ripen especially fast, whereas late-ripening sites were not much faster than normal, reporting big differences according to both vine age and soil hydrology. Fermentations went well, though again there were big differences in fermentation times between cuvées and even barrels. And the resulting wines have turned out superbly, without doubt numbering among the finest the year has to offer. As I wrote last year, Olivier Lamy's meticulous and thoughtful viticulture is a source of inspiration for other vignerons up and down the Côte: whether it's his high-density plantings, his practice of rolling canopies rather than hedging him, or his almost manic worth ethic, where Lamy is leading, others will surely follow. In the winery, more foulage and longer press cycles are the order of the day, capturing more structuring—and refreshing—dry extract. Long élevage in barrels and demi-muids follows. And it would be remiss not to mention the domaine's elegantly perfumed but impressively concentrated red wines, well worthy of attention in their own right. In short, this is one of the two or three finest sources of white Burgundy on the Côte de Beaune, and readers are warmly encouraged to acquaint themselves with these serious, thought-provoking wines." William Kelley, Wine Advocate Interim, Feb 2020
Lot Location: Orange County
Estimate: $5,000

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