| Score: |
96+ ST.
"Subtly complex, aristocratic aromas of lemon and pure crushed stone. Wonderfully intense and taut, with great mineral depth giving the wine a powerful impression of force. Finishes with explosive energy, an essence of crushed stone and outstanding lingering perfume. It's virtually impossible to spit this unflagging, tactile wine: the minerality here is almost frightening. The best of these 2011s today, without question, and a wine that transcends its vintage. The June 30 hail was the most destructive storm here in 2012, resulting in crop losses of up to 60% in the family's holdings in Meursault Vireuils, Chevalières, and Rougeots, said Raphaël Coche. Then on August 1, more hail cut the crop on the plain by 10%, with losses closer to 25% on the south side of Meursault (Pinot Noir yields in Volnay and Monthélie were off by 80%, according to Coche). Conditions then turned windy after the August 1 hail, and the affected grapes fell off the vines, an occurrence Coche described as quite rare. Coche Junior and Senior then harvested early, beginning on Sunday, September 16th. Raphaël told me he prefers the whites to the reds in 2012 .... By the way, the Coches will get an additional parcel of Corton-Charlemagne this year and will soon be able to double their production of this Grand Cru. Note that the labels here were updated as of the 2010s, except for the Corton-Charlemagne. Only a few of the 2012s were close to the end of their malos at the time of my visit, so I have published early notes on only a few of the more advanced cuvées." Stephen Tanzer, Vinous.com, Sep 2013 |