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97 WA. “The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous is full-bodied, rich and velvety, yet it also possesses more freshness and concentrated berry fruit than the Vieilles Vignes bottling. An absolute beauty of a beast, it delivers ripe raspberries and cherries, a gentle dusting of Asian spice and a long, long finish. Brothers Pascal and Vincent Maurel manage this exemplary estate, with guidance from the ubiquitous consultant, Philippe Cambie. With no obvious signage, it would be easy for visitors to Châteauneuf-du-Pape to overlook this domaine, but from within this nondescript exterior emerge some of the appellation's top bottlings. Vincent pointed out during my visit that the cellar contains 180 barrels but that they're never used for Grenache, with the exception of the Sanctus Santorum, which ages exclusively in new demi-muids. He predicts that ‘2016 will be one of the greatest vintages in a very long time, maybe the very best’ …. Production at the domaine in 2017 was down by 40% across the board, so consumers may want to buy a bit more of the 2016s to ensure they have enough on hand.” Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate, Aug 2019 |