Score: |
96 JG. "A few weeks back I was struck by how brilliantly bottles of 1998 Roty Charmes-Chambertin and Rousseau Chambertin showed in a lineup of predominantly 1999 red Burgundies. Well, the ’98 Clos de Bèze is every bit as stunning as those two wines, and really makes a mockery of those that would pooh-pooh this fine red Burgundy vintage. The bouquet is deep and utterly compelling, soaring from the glass in a blaze of red and black cherries, blood oranges, hints of grilled meats, bitter chocolate, herb tones, kaleidoscopic mineral tones, and a fine framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and laser-like in its focus, with a solid kernel of sweet fruit, fine, even tannins, and stunning length and grip on the complex finish. Not only is this wine perfectly balanced for aging, but it is not even remotely close to too tannic. A great young wine in the making." John Gilman, View From the Cellar, Bonus Articles, Jun 2003 |