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97 AG. "Gaja's 2013 Sperss is fabulous. Deep and powerful, yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2013 hits all the right notes. Graphite, game, smoke, licorice, plum, black cherry and dark spice are some of the signatures, but as is always the case with the best vintages, Sperss is a wine of vertical intensity and muscle. The 2013 won't be anywhere near ready to drink for a number of years. All the pedgiree and character of these Serralunga sites come through in an exceptionally beautiful and vivid Barolo from Gaja. Gaja re-enters the Barolo denomination with their 2013 Conteisa and Sperss, just as they did last year with the Barbarescos. The 2013 Barolos are decidedly classically-leaning wines done in the much more traditional style that defines the Gaja house style today. It will be interesting to see if the personalities of the 2013s and 2014s ultimately represent a stylistic shift or are instead mere reflections of the respective vintages. Either way, the Gaja wines today are starkly different than those made here just a few years ago. Sisters Gaia and Rossana Gaja are shaking things up at their family estate. And from what I have seen thus far, for the better." Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com, Aug 2017 |