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The January 2015 Internet-Only Auction Part 2
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Lot 108
Estimate: $25
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Collection name
Reviews
97WA
"Almost unbelievably, the 2004 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Auslese - harvested on the cusp of Trockenbeerenauslese must weight â ratchets up the complexity, richness and depth. Lemon cream, toasted almond, musk, caramelized apricot, malt, mineral salts, honey and a mysterious meatiness figure among the players in this long drama. The sense of layers exhibited by the Eselshaut are extended to jammy, caramelized, dried, and tartly fresh pit fruits, and the finish penetrates even more deeply. There wasnât much noble botrytis this year, and there are around 600 liters each of the two Riesling Auslesen, wines I donât doubt will still be revealing awesome new vistas in 20 or more years. Since the arrival of young Mosel-born Martin Franzen at this great estate so long associated with the wisdom and artistry of Hans-Gunter Schwarzâs 36-year tenure as cellar master, I have been struck by a degree of qualitative continuity and stylistic affinity with the ancient regime that other commentators seem not to have noticed. In a very real sense, the legacy of Schwarz â âactivism in the vines, minimalism in the cellarâ â has seeped indelibly into the fabric of nearly every top winery in the Pfalz. How then could it be otherwise precisely at Mandelring #25? And although Franzen and a largely new team were forced, to a considerable extent, to rediscover the keys to these vines and sites, they are the same vines and sites so carefully tended, trained and conscientiously replanted over the past decades by the then team of Catoir and Schwarz. In 2004, Franzen has unlocked from them astonishingly numerous and improbably fine vinous treasures such as one has come to associate with the name âMuller-Catoirâ in the nearly four decades since a very young Heinrich Catoir inherited this estate and decided to make a statement."
Region
Sweet
Country
Score
"Almost unbelievably, the 2004 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Auslese - harvested on the cusp of Trockenbeerenauslese must weight â ratchets up the complexity, richness and depth. Lemon cream, toasted almond, musk, caramelized apricot, malt, mineral salts, honey and a mysterious meatiness figure among the players in this long drama. The sense of layers exhibited by the Eselshaut are extended to jammy, caramelized, dried, and tartly fresh pit fruits, and the finish penetrates even more deeply. There wasnât much noble botrytis this year, and there are around 600 liters each of the two Riesling Auslesen, wines I donât doubt will still be revealing awesome new vistas in 20 or more years. Since the arrival of young Mosel-born Martin Franzen at this great estate so long associated with the wisdom and artistry of Hans-Gunter Schwarzâs 36-year tenure as cellar master, I have been struck by a degree of qualitative continuity and stylistic affinity with the ancient regime that other commentators seem not to have noticed. In a very real sense, the legacy of Schwarz â âactivism in the vines, minimalism in the cellarâ â has seeped indelibly into the fabric of nearly every top winery in the Pfalz. How then could it be otherwise precisely at Mandelring #25? And although Franzen and a largely new team were forced, to a considerable extent, to rediscover the keys to these vines and sites, they are the same vines and sites so carefully tended, trained and conscientiously replanted over the past decades by the then team of Catoir and Schwarz. In 2004, Franzen has unlocked from them astonishingly numerous and improbably fine vinous treasures such as one has come to associate with the name âMuller-Catoirâ in the nearly four decades since a very young Heinrich Catoir inherited this estate and decided to make a statement."
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The spiritual home of Riesling, producing wines of piercing acidity, precision and longevity across a spectrum from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. Cool, steep-sloped vineyards along the Mosel and Rhine yield some of the world's most delicate, long-lived whites.
A highly aromatic white of piercing acidity and transparency to terroir, ranging from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. It ages remarkably and is the noble grape of Germany and Alsace.