Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Heimbourg Sélection de Grains Nobles 1989

Reviews

WA

“If you regard the level of ripeness exhibited by Zind Humbrecht’s Heimbourg Pinot Gris Sélection de Grains Nobles as formidable, then consider that the . . . Gewürztraminer Heimbourg Sélection de Grains Nobles (from the lowest, most-protected portion of that vineyard) made it all the way to 12% alcohol and still retains 240 grams of residual sugar! Here too, the level of acidity was exceptionally high by any standard. ‘The only drawback,’ remarks Humbrecht, ‘is that the production is only 1000 half bottles from a hectare.’ Exhibiting more peach and apricot preserve yet, paradoxically, slightly less litchi or brown spice in the nose than the corresponding Pinot Gris, this also offers a honeyed, candied pink grapefruit note reminiscent of Scheurebe. In the mouth, one is confronted with a viscous elixir so intense and sweet it almost blinds one to flavor or textural nuance. The overall impression is somewhat candied but there is still levity thanks to powerful acidity. Butterscotch and anise join the honey-drenched, caramelized peach, apricot and litchi in a sweet finish that followed me even when it was high time to get on with tasting the next wine! Not only is this likely to flourish for a quarter century or more in the bottle, I really wouldn’t care to revisit it for at least a decade, by which time the sweetness will have toned down, and the flavors and textures will become more differentiated – and probably downright magical.” [Review of the 2005]