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The April 2020 Auction: Part 5
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Lot 196
Estimate: $1,700
2 Very lightly torn, 1 nicked labels. Disgorged November 2011.
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Collection name
Reviews
WA
"The story of Champagne BoĆ«rl & Kroff, as Patrick SabatĆ© tells it, has its origins 'in trying to create Champagne that can deliver the same emotions as the great red wine such as those from Domaine de la RomanĆ©e-Conti that I tasted with my father when I was young.' SabatĆ© suggested the idea to Michel Drappier, who contended that, by working with limited yields, organic farming and a minimum of ten years sur lattes maturation exclusively in magnum, it might be possible. 1995 was the first vintage, derived from one of Drappier's best Pinot Noir parcels, and it went to bottle after a year in foudre. The goal, as SabatĆ© put it, is 'extreme vinosity ā something totally different, something you haven't tasted before.' Like Salon, which is evidently a conceptual model for the project, BoĆ«rl & Kroff was conceived as a private pleasure but became a commercial proposition when the 1996 vintage was released for sale in 2008 . . . . I must confess that the wines are genuinely impressive, and any readers who admire vinous, concentrated Champagnes will find much to admire hereāI certainly loved their old-fashioned, gastronomic style. While the story may sound too good to be true, the quality in the bottle is unquestionable. Indeed, while I was following these magnums over several days after this tasting, I presented a few glasses blind to several experienced tasters to test their response, and their impressed reaction mirrored my own. These, then, are wines that deserve to be taken seriously, and curious readers with the requisite disposable income shouldn't hesitate to try them."
Region
Sparkling
Country
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
The northerly region that gives its name to the world's most celebrated sparkling wine, made by secondary fermentation in bottle from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Chalky soils and a cool climate yield wines of finesse and longevity.
The sole appellation for true Champagne, producing sparkling wines of finesse and complexity by traditional method from Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
The world's most versatile white grape, producing everything from steely Chablis to rich, oaked whites. Its neutrality makes it a mirror of terroir and winemaking, and the foundation of white Burgundy and Champagne.
A key Champagne grape lending fruitiness, roundness and approachability to blends alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.
