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The February 2021 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 197
Estimate: $325
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Collection name
Reviews
94-96NM
"The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques was affected by 50% to 60% because of the frost, with 20% whole bunch and 70% new oak. It has a very crystalline bouquet with perfumed dark berry fruit, crushed stone and hints of violet that just deliver stupendous precision. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvety smooth entry and great depth, with the new oak nicely integrated, although maybe I might have chucked a few more stems in the vat on the finish? Still, this has great potential, a magnificent Lavaux Saint-Jacques that will dazzle for many years to come. Arnaud Mortet can seemingly do little wrong at the moment when it comes to his wines. Having sped from Meursault to Gevrey-Chambertin in 30 minutes (surely a recordâŠI kept to the speed limitâŠhonest), I was eager to see what he had achieved in this tricky vintage. âIt took three or four days to realize the extent of the frost damage,â he explained. âThe vines then took three weeks to leaf. Then it was very rainy. It was very difficult for our team of vineyard workers. They were just exhausted. It was important to prune the vines after the frost, to clip away branches with no grapes in order to maintain vigor and prepare the vine for 2017. We picked from 23 to 25 September, quickly because I found the sugar levels increasing quickly. Potential alcohol levels came in between 12.8% and 13.5% alcohol, the highest in Clos de Vougeot and Mazis-Chambertin. So we only did a tiny amount of chaptalization, more to stagger the de-vatting so that you are not doing every vat at the same time.â All of Mortetâs wines were tasted from barrel at the domaine, Arnaud replicating the blends of used and new oak. It was a staggeringly accomplished set of wines. Careful use of whole bunch and new oak allowed each terroir to really express itself, and that includes a couple of vineyards that may have been swept off course by the frost and mildew pressure. But the Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs really set the tone for a scintillating run of wines that rarely put a foot wrong, except for his new mĂ©tayage in EchĂ©zeaux shared with Christophe Roumier and likewise felt rather pummelled in the feuillette of new oak (I am more interested in both their 2017s when they should have around four barrels). The Mazis-Chambertin might well be the pick of the wines, a grand cru that performed strongly in 2016, while the Bonnes Mares is among the best I tasted during my tastings. Quantities are small in this vintage. Grab what you can. You won't regret it."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques was affected by 50% to 60% because of the frost, with 20% whole bunch and 70% new oak. It has a very crystalline bouquet with perfumed dark berry fruit, crushed stone and hints of violet that just deliver stupendous precision. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvety smooth entry and great depth, with the new oak nicely integrated, although maybe I might have chucked a few more stems in the vat on the finish? Still, this has great potential, a magnificent Lavaux Saint-Jacques that will dazzle for many years to come. Arnaud Mortet can seemingly do little wrong at the moment when it comes to his wines. Having sped from Meursault to Gevrey-Chambertin in 30 minutes (surely a recordâŠI kept to the speed limitâŠhonest), I was eager to see what he had achieved in this tricky vintage. âIt took three or four days to realize the extent of the frost damage,â he explained. âThe vines then took three weeks to leaf. Then it was very rainy. It was very difficult for our team of vineyard workers. They were just exhausted. It was important to prune the vines after the frost, to clip away branches with no grapes in order to maintain vigor and prepare the vine for 2017. We picked from 23 to 25 September, quickly because I found the sugar levels increasing quickly. Potential alcohol levels came in between 12.8% and 13.5% alcohol, the highest in Clos de Vougeot and Mazis-Chambertin. So we only did a tiny amount of chaptalization, more to stagger the de-vatting so that you are not doing every vat at the same time.â All of Mortetâs wines were tasted from barrel at the domaine, Arnaud replicating the blends of used and new oak. It was a staggeringly accomplished set of wines. Careful use of whole bunch and new oak allowed each terroir to really express itself, and that includes a couple of vineyards that may have been swept off course by the frost and mildew pressure. But the Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Cinq Terroirs really set the tone for a scintillating run of wines that rarely put a foot wrong, except for his new mĂ©tayage in EchĂ©zeaux shared with Christophe Roumier and likewise felt rather pummelled in the feuillette of new oak (I am more interested in both their 2017s when they should have around four barrels). The Mazis-Chambertin might well be the pick of the wines, a grand cru that performed strongly in 2016, while the Bonnes Mares is among the best I tasted during my tastings. Quantities are small in this vintage. Grab what you can. You won't regret it."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
The Cote de Nuits' largest Grand Cru commune, producing powerful, structured and deeply flavored Pinot Noir built for long aging.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.