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The April 2021 Auction: Part 4
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1 / 2Lot 217
Estimate: $425
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Collection name
Reviews
93WA
"Collet's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is now in bottle, and it's easier to understand than the single-barrel sample I tried last year. Bursting with aromas of citrus blossom, peaches and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a saline, aromatic finish. From vines planted in 1972, it's an unusually musky, exotic expression of Valmur, and readers looking for a more austere, tensile vision of Chablis will find it disconcerting. For more information about Romain Collet and the 37-hectare domaine over which he presides, readers are directed to my commentary in Issue 238. His 2017s, tasted from bottle at the domaine, were showing well, the vintage seeming well suited to the fleshy, textural style he favors. He told me that his 2018s retained interesting acidity and tension despite the warmth of the harvest and that they are quite concentrated despite the year's generous yields. I'll taste them on my next visit to the region."
Region
White
Country
Score
"Collet's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is now in bottle, and it's easier to understand than the single-barrel sample I tried last year. Bursting with aromas of citrus blossom, peaches and exotic spices, it's full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with a saline, aromatic finish. From vines planted in 1972, it's an unusually musky, exotic expression of Valmur, and readers looking for a more austere, tensile vision of Chablis will find it disconcerting. For more information about Romain Collet and the 37-hectare domaine over which he presides, readers are directed to my commentary in Issue 238. His 2017s, tasted from bottle at the domaine, were showing well, the vintage seeming well suited to the fleshy, textural style he favors. He told me that his 2018s retained interesting acidity and tension despite the warmth of the harvest and that they are quite concentrated despite the year's generous yields. I'll taste them on my next visit to the region."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
Produces steely, mineral Chardonnay from Kimmeridgian limestone in Burgundy's cool north, prized for precision, purity and saline drive.
2017 in Burgundy delivered generous yields and fresh, elegant wines; the whites are especially fine, bright and precise, while the reds are charming, supple and aromatic, drinking well relatively early.
The world's most versatile white grape, producing everything from steely Chablis to rich, oaked whites. Its neutrality makes it a mirror of terroir and winemaking, and the foundation of white Burgundy and Champagne.