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The May 2021 Auction: Part 3
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1 / 2Lot 115
Estimate: $400
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Collection name
Reviews
94-96NM
"The 2013 EchĂ©zeaux Grand Cru is matured in 100% new oak. The nose is dark and broody, but very well defined and unfurls with hints of iodine and seaweed. The new wood is clearly well integrated and allows the terroir to shine through. The palate is vivacious and bounds along with energy that permeates through the blackberry, boysenberry, mineral and crushed violets notes, then with aeration, along comes a note of kirsch. This is well structured and contains so much energy on the finish that it might well turn out to be Emmanuelâs best contribution to the 2013 vintage. I arrived at Domaine Emmanuel Rouget with a floodlit mobile bottling machine on the back of truck being packed up for the day, Emmanuel himself busy on the forklift. Fortunately it was not the 2013s that they were bottling, but even so, the monstrously late malolactics meant that some cuvĂ©es such as the Savigny-les-Beaune were not possible to taste. Even the Cros Parantoux had only completed part of its malolactic fermentation and Emmanuel seemed a little concerned about just how long it was taking. (He cited the 2008 as one that took 15 months to complete and he now regrets that it was so prolonged.) Still, what I could taste from barrel already looks very promising, building on the success of last yearâs exemplary 2012s. He suffered the same as everyone else with respect to flowering that depleted the crop but of course, he was not touched by hail. He commenced the picking on October 1, perhaps a little earlier than some of his peers and so he was getting natural alcohol levels around 11 percent, therefore he had to chaptalize by around one degree. I will not discuss the wines in too much detail here because of those tardy malolactics, suffice to say that I cannot wait to retaste them in completed form post-bottling."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2013 EchĂ©zeaux Grand Cru is matured in 100% new oak. The nose is dark and broody, but very well defined and unfurls with hints of iodine and seaweed. The new wood is clearly well integrated and allows the terroir to shine through. The palate is vivacious and bounds along with energy that permeates through the blackberry, boysenberry, mineral and crushed violets notes, then with aeration, along comes a note of kirsch. This is well structured and contains so much energy on the finish that it might well turn out to be Emmanuelâs best contribution to the 2013 vintage. I arrived at Domaine Emmanuel Rouget with a floodlit mobile bottling machine on the back of truck being packed up for the day, Emmanuel himself busy on the forklift. Fortunately it was not the 2013s that they were bottling, but even so, the monstrously late malolactics meant that some cuvĂ©es such as the Savigny-les-Beaune were not possible to taste. Even the Cros Parantoux had only completed part of its malolactic fermentation and Emmanuel seemed a little concerned about just how long it was taking. (He cited the 2008 as one that took 15 months to complete and he now regrets that it was so prolonged.) Still, what I could taste from barrel already looks very promising, building on the success of last yearâs exemplary 2012s. He suffered the same as everyone else with respect to flowering that depleted the crop but of course, he was not touched by hail. He commenced the picking on October 1, perhaps a little earlier than some of his peers and so he was getting natural alcohol levels around 11 percent, therefore he had to chaptalize by around one degree. I will not discuss the wines in too much detail here because of those tardy malolactics, suffice to say that I cannot wait to retaste them in completed form post-bottling."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
2013 in Burgundy was a difficult, cool and hail-hit year with a late harvest and small crop; the wines are fresh, lean and classically styled, with bright acidity and firm structure, especially the reds.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.