The May 2021 Auction: Part 3
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1 / 2Lot 469
Estimate: $1,400
OC. 3 Very lightly scuffed labels.
This auction has ended. Bidding is closed.
Collection name
Reviews
94WA
"The 2017 Saint Joseph offers up effusive notes of mint, black olives and black cherries. As usual, the Gonons have managed to combine herbal, savory and fruity elements into a compelling, harmonious whole. The wine is medium to full-bodied and fully ripe, perhaps not quite as lush and fruit-driven as the 2018, but it's still a tremendous success, capped off by gentle tannins and salted licorice on the long finish. For good reason, this jewel of an estate has become a darling among critics, sommeliers and consumers alike, with the result that prices have escalated rapidly. Available not that long ago for less than $50 at retail, the regular Saint Joseph now routinely sells for more than $100. In fact, good luck finding it for less than that. The domaine named for their father is today run by brothers Jean and Pierre Gonon, with Jean typically taking the lead when it comes to hosting visiting scribes. We first tasted the reds, starting with the 2018s out of barrel. It wasn't an easy year, said Jean. "We had lots of rain in spring, a bit of mildew, but then no rain until the week of August 15. It rained 14-15 millimeters a few times, then it was dry the rest of the way." Whites were picked the first week of September, and reds the following week. As we progressed through the lineup, going first to bottled reds and then switching over to whites, Jean spoke at length about the importance of working the soil, the water-holding content of the subsoil and the contributions of various soil microorganisms to the health of the plant. It's obvious that the vineyards are where the brothers spend the bulk of their time and also where the future of this great family domaine lies. In certain years, Gonon makes a separate Vieilles Vignes bottling, and after not doing so in 2016 and 2017, it appears there may be one released from 2018. Given the minute quantities, collectors will need to work their trade connections hard to locate a bottle or two."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2017 Saint Joseph offers up effusive notes of mint, black olives and black cherries. As usual, the Gonons have managed to combine herbal, savory and fruity elements into a compelling, harmonious whole. The wine is medium to full-bodied and fully ripe, perhaps not quite as lush and fruit-driven as the 2018, but it's still a tremendous success, capped off by gentle tannins and salted licorice on the long finish. For good reason, this jewel of an estate has become a darling among critics, sommeliers and consumers alike, with the result that prices have escalated rapidly. Available not that long ago for less than $50 at retail, the regular Saint Joseph now routinely sells for more than $100. In fact, good luck finding it for less than that. The domaine named for their father is today run by brothers Jean and Pierre Gonon, with Jean typically taking the lead when it comes to hosting visiting scribes. We first tasted the reds, starting with the 2018s out of barrel. It wasn't an easy year, said Jean. "We had lots of rain in spring, a bit of mildew, but then no rain until the week of August 15. It rained 14-15 millimeters a few times, then it was dry the rest of the way." Whites were picked the first week of September, and reds the following week. As we progressed through the lineup, going first to bottled reds and then switching over to whites, Jean spoke at length about the importance of working the soil, the water-holding content of the subsoil and the contributions of various soil microorganisms to the health of the plant. It's obvious that the vineyards are where the brothers spend the bulk of their time and also where the future of this great family domaine lies. In certain years, Gonon makes a separate Vieilles Vignes bottling, and after not doing so in 2016 and 2017, it appears there may be one released from 2018. Given the minute quantities, collectors will need to work their trade connections hard to locate a bottle or two."
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Syrah (Shiraz) produces dark, powerful reds with black fruit, pepper and smoked-meat notes. It yields elegant, perfumed wines in the northern Rhone and bold, rich styles in Australia.