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The May 2021 Auction: Part 4
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1 / 2Lot 68
Estimate: $550
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Collection name
Reviews
94WA
"Both more concentrated and more introverted than the preceding Beaux Monts, Dujac's 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts opens in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, orange rind, smoked duck and peonies. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and elegantly muscular, with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins and mouthwatering acids, concluding with a perfumed finish. Jeremy Seysses opted to pick early in 2018, beginning with the white wines on August 27 and started the reds on the 30th. "The 'usual' picking order was disrupted," related Seysses, explaining that sites with deeper soils experienced less hydric stress and ripened faster. "Without the large crop"—which here ranged between 42 and 48 hectoliters per hectare, with even the old-vine Gruenchers giving 35 hectoliters versus a normal 25 per hectare—"I think it would have turned out like 2003," he added. This is clearly a very successful vintage chez Dujac, and it's a very consistent portfolio in what is more generally a somewhat heterogeneous vintage. This is a deep and youthfully muscular set of wines, and I visited just after the first few cold days and nights of winter 2019. Seysses commented that the range was in a comparatively closed phase, with their structure a bit more prominent than had been the case a month earlier—but such are the vagaries of barrel tasting. What is clear is that this is a serious vintage, built for the long haul despite its abundance of fruit, and the Dujac 2018s have the makings of very age-worthy wines. Meanwhile, the Dujac 2017s, which I revisited from bottle, have gone from strength to strength, having gained in depth and dimension with a second winter in barrel. They all more than met the high expectations I formed of them last year."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"Both more concentrated and more introverted than the preceding Beaux Monts, Dujac's 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts opens in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, plums, orange rind, smoked duck and peonies. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and elegantly muscular, with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins and mouthwatering acids, concluding with a perfumed finish. Jeremy Seysses opted to pick early in 2018, beginning with the white wines on August 27 and started the reds on the 30th. "The 'usual' picking order was disrupted," related Seysses, explaining that sites with deeper soils experienced less hydric stress and ripened faster. "Without the large crop"—which here ranged between 42 and 48 hectoliters per hectare, with even the old-vine Gruenchers giving 35 hectoliters versus a normal 25 per hectare—"I think it would have turned out like 2003," he added. This is clearly a very successful vintage chez Dujac, and it's a very consistent portfolio in what is more generally a somewhat heterogeneous vintage. This is a deep and youthfully muscular set of wines, and I visited just after the first few cold days and nights of winter 2019. Seysses commented that the range was in a comparatively closed phase, with their structure a bit more prominent than had been the case a month earlier—but such are the vagaries of barrel tasting. What is clear is that this is a serious vintage, built for the long haul despite its abundance of fruit, and the Dujac 2018s have the makings of very age-worthy wines. Meanwhile, the Dujac 2017s, which I revisited from bottle, have gone from strength to strength, having gained in depth and dimension with a second winter in barrel. They all more than met the high expectations I formed of them last year."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
Arguably Burgundy's most exalted village, home to legendary Grand Crus. Its Pinot Noir is renowned for perfume, silk and sublime complexity.
2017 in Burgundy delivered generous yields and fresh, elegant wines; the whites are especially fine, bright and precise, while the reds are charming, supple and aromatic, drinking well relatively early.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.