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The June 2021 Auction: Part 1
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1 / 2Lot 27
Estimate: $225
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Collection name
Reviews
94+WA
"The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes was hard to read from barrel, but it has developed beautifully and showed very well indeed from bottle. Mingling aromas of yellow orchard fruit, orange oil and clear honey with hints of oatmeal and dried white flowers, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a blockier, more muscular profile than the suave Genevrières, built around racy acids and chalky structuring dry extract. This is a great Charmes in the making, though it will require patience. When I tasted these wines from barrel last year, I wrote that Antoine Jobard's incisive but concentrated style was a perfect match for the 2017 vintage, and that contention was resoundingly confirmed by their performance in bottle. Antoine took over from his father, François, in 2004, but the rudiments of winemaking here haven't changed: long fermentations, protracted sur-lie élevage without stirring and moderate percentages of new wood are still the order of the day. In the 2015 vintage, Jobard's wines underwent fully 20 months of élevage, the last eight being spent in stainless steel tank, a medium that resulted in much more pronounced reduction than is the case when the wines spend their second winter in wood. Accordingly, he tells me, he has decided to subject his 2017s to a shorter stay in steel—a sensible decision, to my mind. Given Jobard's preference for long élevage, I have decided it is more interesting to review his finished wines in bottle rather than attempting to assess them a year into their élevage, when they are sometimes still troubled by suspended lees or otherwise inscrutable; so I look forward to reporting on his 2018s next year."
Region
White
Country
Score
"The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes was hard to read from barrel, but it has developed beautifully and showed very well indeed from bottle. Mingling aromas of yellow orchard fruit, orange oil and clear honey with hints of oatmeal and dried white flowers, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a blockier, more muscular profile than the suave Genevrières, built around racy acids and chalky structuring dry extract. This is a great Charmes in the making, though it will require patience. When I tasted these wines from barrel last year, I wrote that Antoine Jobard's incisive but concentrated style was a perfect match for the 2017 vintage, and that contention was resoundingly confirmed by their performance in bottle. Antoine took over from his father, François, in 2004, but the rudiments of winemaking here haven't changed: long fermentations, protracted sur-lie élevage without stirring and moderate percentages of new wood are still the order of the day. In the 2015 vintage, Jobard's wines underwent fully 20 months of élevage, the last eight being spent in stainless steel tank, a medium that resulted in much more pronounced reduction than is the case when the wines spend their second winter in wood. Accordingly, he tells me, he has decided to subject his 2017s to a shorter stay in steel—a sensible decision, to my mind. Given Jobard's preference for long élevage, I have decided it is more interesting to review his finished wines in bottle rather than attempting to assess them a year into their élevage, when they are sometimes still troubled by suspended lees or otherwise inscrutable; so I look forward to reporting on his 2018s next year."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
The Cote de Beaune's largest white-wine village, known for rich, nutty, buttery Chardonnay of generous texture.
2017 in Burgundy delivered generous yields and fresh, elegant wines; the whites are especially fine, bright and precise, while the reds are charming, supple and aromatic, drinking well relatively early.
The world's most versatile white grape, producing everything from steely Chablis to rich, oaked whites. Its neutrality makes it a mirror of terroir and winemaking, and the foundation of white Burgundy and Champagne.