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The January 2022 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 239
Estimate: $120
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Collection name
Reviews
95WA
"The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is the deepest and most complete of Dauvissat's premiers crus, delivering a complex bouquet of orange oil, pear and fresh bread complemented by top notes of iodine, dried white flowers and beeswax. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's layered and concentrated, with superb mid-palate volume, lively acids and a long, electric finish. Technically retired but very much a continuing presence at his eponymous domaine, Vincent Dauvissatâwho forsook a career as a shepherd to become one of France's most celebrated vigneronsâcouldn't disguise his satisfaction as we tasted his recently bottled 2019 portfolio. After some discussion, we settled on the 1989 vintage ("but tighter and more incisive") as a possible analogy for 2019's hyper-concentrated, ripe, but all the while classically Chablisien style. In any case, they're some of the wines of the vintage and are well worth seeking out. Readers will remember that farming here is organic but without certification. The harvest is by hand, and the wines ferment in tank before racking to barrel with the lees (Raveneau's Chablis, by contrast, are racked to barrel more or less without their lees), spending a second winter in wood before bottling. A first bottling, destined for the American market, sees a light filtration; a second bottlingâsome of which is sealed with wax, some of which sees a foil capsule and some of which is sold under the Dauvissat-Camus labelâwill come out a little later in the year, and doesn't."
Region
White
Country
Score
"The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is the deepest and most complete of Dauvissat's premiers crus, delivering a complex bouquet of orange oil, pear and fresh bread complemented by top notes of iodine, dried white flowers and beeswax. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's layered and concentrated, with superb mid-palate volume, lively acids and a long, electric finish. Technically retired but very much a continuing presence at his eponymous domaine, Vincent Dauvissatâwho forsook a career as a shepherd to become one of France's most celebrated vigneronsâcouldn't disguise his satisfaction as we tasted his recently bottled 2019 portfolio. After some discussion, we settled on the 1989 vintage ("but tighter and more incisive") as a possible analogy for 2019's hyper-concentrated, ripe, but all the while classically Chablisien style. In any case, they're some of the wines of the vintage and are well worth seeking out. Readers will remember that farming here is organic but without certification. The harvest is by hand, and the wines ferment in tank before racking to barrel with the lees (Raveneau's Chablis, by contrast, are racked to barrel more or less without their lees), spending a second winter in wood before bottling. A first bottling, destined for the American market, sees a light filtration; a second bottlingâsome of which is sealed with wax, some of which sees a foil capsule and some of which is sold under the Dauvissat-Camus labelâwill come out a little later in the year, and doesn't."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
Produces steely, mineral Chardonnay from Kimmeridgian limestone in Burgundy's cool north, prized for precision, purity and saline drive.
2019 in Burgundy combined spring frost and summer drought to cut yields, producing concentrated yet balanced wines; the reds are ripe and structured with retained freshness, making an excellent, ageworthy vintage in both colors.
The world's most versatile white grape, producing everything from steely Chablis to rich, oaked whites. Its neutrality makes it a mirror of terroir and winemaking, and the foundation of white Burgundy and Champagne.