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The February 2022 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 208
Estimate: $300
2 x scuffed, nicked labels.
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Collection name
Reviews
93WA
"One of the high points of the range is the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles, a lovely wine that opens in the glass with aromas of plums and wild berries mingled with orange rind, exotic spices and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, deep and intense, its velvety attack segues into a layered, vibrant mid-palate that's built around a bright spine of acidity, concluding with a long, mineral finish. The 2020 is another brilliant vintage for a domaine that has been on one of the hottest hot streaks in contemporary Burgundy in recent years. Vibrant flavors, beautifully refined tannins, striking concentration and moderate alcohols are the order of the day, and these young wines seem to unite the charm of 2019 and the seriousness of 2018 (at least at this address, which produced some of the wines of the vintage) with supplemental reserves of energy that mark them out as very special indeed. Clearly, the domaine's innovative viticulture, emphasizing high, unhedged canopies and biodynamic preparations, with soils cultivated to encourage deep rooting, meant the vines were better equipped to resist the heat and drought in 2020 than many of their neighbors (something a walk through Gevrey a few days before harvest 2020 enabled me to see for myself). It bears repeating that the Dugat-Py style has appreciably evolved in the last few years: Low yields, old vines and small-berried massal selections mean that these are inevitably deep, concentrated and age-worthy wines; but extraction isn't pushed so far as it once was, and—as I wrote last year—Loïc has also quietly reduced the percentage of new oak used here. Where, until recently, 100% new was the order of the day from all premiers and grands crus—and sometimes for communal appellations too—that has been much reduced: premiers crus now see around 50% new wood, and the Vosne-Romanée a mere 30%. The choice of forests, seasoning and toast has been refined too, and clearly Dugat-Py has never been so well served by Tonnellerie François Frères as they are today. So, I once again encourage readers to put outdated stereotypes of excessive oak and over-extraction to one side and try what is being produced today, as these are bottles that number among the finest that contemporary Burgundy has to offer."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"One of the high points of the range is the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles, a lovely wine that opens in the glass with aromas of plums and wild berries mingled with orange rind, exotic spices and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, deep and intense, its velvety attack segues into a layered, vibrant mid-palate that's built around a bright spine of acidity, concluding with a long, mineral finish. The 2020 is another brilliant vintage for a domaine that has been on one of the hottest hot streaks in contemporary Burgundy in recent years. Vibrant flavors, beautifully refined tannins, striking concentration and moderate alcohols are the order of the day, and these young wines seem to unite the charm of 2019 and the seriousness of 2018 (at least at this address, which produced some of the wines of the vintage) with supplemental reserves of energy that mark them out as very special indeed. Clearly, the domaine's innovative viticulture, emphasizing high, unhedged canopies and biodynamic preparations, with soils cultivated to encourage deep rooting, meant the vines were better equipped to resist the heat and drought in 2020 than many of their neighbors (something a walk through Gevrey a few days before harvest 2020 enabled me to see for myself). It bears repeating that the Dugat-Py style has appreciably evolved in the last few years: Low yields, old vines and small-berried massal selections mean that these are inevitably deep, concentrated and age-worthy wines; but extraction isn't pushed so far as it once was, and—as I wrote last year—Loïc has also quietly reduced the percentage of new oak used here. Where, until recently, 100% new was the order of the day from all premiers and grands crus—and sometimes for communal appellations too—that has been much reduced: premiers crus now see around 50% new wood, and the Vosne-Romanée a mere 30%. The choice of forests, seasoning and toast has been refined too, and clearly Dugat-Py has never been so well served by Tonnellerie François Frères as they are today. So, I once again encourage readers to put outdated stereotypes of excessive oak and over-extraction to one side and try what is being produced today, as these are bottles that number among the finest that contemporary Burgundy has to offer."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
The Cote de Nuits' largest Grand Cru commune, producing powerful, structured and deeply flavored Pinot Noir built for long aging.
2019 in Burgundy combined spring frost and summer drought to cut yields, producing concentrated yet balanced wines; the reds are ripe and structured with retained freshness, making an excellent, ageworthy vintage in both colors.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.