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The March 2022 Auction: Part 5
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1 / 2Lot 347
Estimate: $110
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Collection name
Reviews
92-94WA
"The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet unwinds in the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet mingling raspberries and blood orange with savory bass notes of woo smoke, loamy soil, espresso roast and raw cocoa. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and lively, with a deep and tight-knit core, bright acids and a long finish. After d'Angerville's immensely charming 2017 portfolioâwhich I'll be revisiting in the spring, as well as going into a bit more depth about the domaine's history and holdingsâthe 2018 vintage at this Volnay reference point is more muscular and structured, wines that will both need and reward Ă©levage and bottle age. Stylistically, comparisons with the 2005 vintage wouldn't be out of place, though I think these 2018s won't be quite as youthfully unyielding as that year. As ever, the domaine has produced exemplary wines, and I warmly recommend them. As I wrote last year, followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: biodynamic farming, destemmed grapes, classical macerations and Ă©levage in barrelsâof which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. These have always been seriously long-lived wines, but contemporary d'Angerville isn't quite as backward and slow to evolve as the wines were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father. The use of barrels with a somewhat younger average ageâeven if percentages of new wood are very modestâgives them a slightly glossier patina, especially in their youth. But readers can expect more insights into this estate later in 2020."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet unwinds in the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet mingling raspberries and blood orange with savory bass notes of woo smoke, loamy soil, espresso roast and raw cocoa. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, concentrated and lively, with a deep and tight-knit core, bright acids and a long finish. After d'Angerville's immensely charming 2017 portfolioâwhich I'll be revisiting in the spring, as well as going into a bit more depth about the domaine's history and holdingsâthe 2018 vintage at this Volnay reference point is more muscular and structured, wines that will both need and reward Ă©levage and bottle age. Stylistically, comparisons with the 2005 vintage wouldn't be out of place, though I think these 2018s won't be quite as youthfully unyielding as that year. As ever, the domaine has produced exemplary wines, and I warmly recommend them. As I wrote last year, followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: biodynamic farming, destemmed grapes, classical macerations and Ă©levage in barrelsâof which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. These have always been seriously long-lived wines, but contemporary d'Angerville isn't quite as backward and slow to evolve as the wines were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father. The use of barrels with a somewhat younger average ageâeven if percentages of new wood are very modestâgives them a slightly glossier patina, especially in their youth. But readers can expect more insights into this estate later in 2020."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
Volnay is a village AOC in Burgundy's Cote de Beaune with esteemed Premier Crus, producing elegant, perfumed and silky Pinot Noir reds prized for their finesse, delicacy and floral red-fruit character.
2018 in Burgundy was hot and dry with a large crop, producing ripe, rich and powerful reds of generous fruit; the whites are full-bodied but require care, as some show lower acidity.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.