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The September 2022 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 1870
Estimate: $90
1 very lightly scuffed label.
This auction has ended. Bidding is closed.
Collection name
Reviews
93VM
"This bottling from in part centenarian vines manages to convey both greater richness and even greater clarity than the many other fine wines in the Selbachsâ present collection. Alluring scents of iris and heliotrope and a greenhouse-like suggestion of verdant foliage follow as inner-mouth perfume on a creamy, expansive yet (at not quite 12% alcohol) buoyant palate brimming with fresh, juicy apple. Cardamom and coriander seed offer counterpoint, leading into a lusciously lingering finish mouthwateringly salt-tinged and transparent to crystalline stony nuances. According to Johannes Selbach, any qualitative heterogeneity in 2016 can be laid at the door of the hot, dry late summer and attendant vine stress. He noted that some ostensibly âlesserâ sites fared better than âtopâ locations due to greater water retention. But in fact, although its high points do not measure up to those of the estateâs 2015 lineup, I found qualitative consistency to be one of this 2016 collectionâs most notable virtues. Considering that some of his vineyards endured hail and peronospora before being hit with that heat wave, its amazing that the estateâs overall crop was close to normal. (The temperature in Zeltingen reached 96 degrees Fahrenheit on one September day, and others werenât far below.) Picking began on October 3 and, with the exception of an Eiswein and a BA, was completed in just over a month. âThe accumulation of must weights was very gradual,â noted Johannesâ son Sebastian, while the wines display delightfully developed aromatics and considerable richness. As explained in my introductions and tasting notes covering previous Selbach-Oster collections, three block-picked â as opposed to selectively harvested â Auslesen have in recent years become the estate flagships. But Johannes Selbach reports that not only those three wines but all of his 2016 vintage Auslesen, with the exception of the "one-star" Zeltinger Schlossberg, represent one-time harvests of every satisfactory cluster that hung in their respective parcels. (For an extended account of this estateâs recent history, its top sites, and the evolution of its viticultural and cellar methodology, consult the introductions to my accounts of their vintage 2014 and vintage 2015 collections.)"
Region
White
Country
Score
"This bottling from in part centenarian vines manages to convey both greater richness and even greater clarity than the many other fine wines in the Selbachsâ present collection. Alluring scents of iris and heliotrope and a greenhouse-like suggestion of verdant foliage follow as inner-mouth perfume on a creamy, expansive yet (at not quite 12% alcohol) buoyant palate brimming with fresh, juicy apple. Cardamom and coriander seed offer counterpoint, leading into a lusciously lingering finish mouthwateringly salt-tinged and transparent to crystalline stony nuances. According to Johannes Selbach, any qualitative heterogeneity in 2016 can be laid at the door of the hot, dry late summer and attendant vine stress. He noted that some ostensibly âlesserâ sites fared better than âtopâ locations due to greater water retention. But in fact, although its high points do not measure up to those of the estateâs 2015 lineup, I found qualitative consistency to be one of this 2016 collectionâs most notable virtues. Considering that some of his vineyards endured hail and peronospora before being hit with that heat wave, its amazing that the estateâs overall crop was close to normal. (The temperature in Zeltingen reached 96 degrees Fahrenheit on one September day, and others werenât far below.) Picking began on October 3 and, with the exception of an Eiswein and a BA, was completed in just over a month. âThe accumulation of must weights was very gradual,â noted Johannesâ son Sebastian, while the wines display delightfully developed aromatics and considerable richness. As explained in my introductions and tasting notes covering previous Selbach-Oster collections, three block-picked â as opposed to selectively harvested â Auslesen have in recent years become the estate flagships. But Johannes Selbach reports that not only those three wines but all of his 2016 vintage Auslesen, with the exception of the "one-star" Zeltinger Schlossberg, represent one-time harvests of every satisfactory cluster that hung in their respective parcels. (For an extended account of this estateâs recent history, its top sites, and the evolution of its viticultural and cellar methodology, consult the introductions to my accounts of their vintage 2014 and vintage 2015 collections.)"
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A highly aromatic white of piercing acidity and transparency to terroir, ranging from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. It ages remarkably and is the noble grape of Germany and Alsace.