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The April 2023 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 203
Estimate: $1,200
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Collection name
Reviews
94-96NM
"The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-BĂšze Grand Cru includes 40% whole cluster fruit and contains both estate and purchased fruit. It has a lovely bouquet of dark berry fruit laced with bergamot and undergrowth aromas, beautifully defined, with real PinotĂ© shining through. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit. There is wonderful balance here, and a subtle spiciness comes through on the finish. This is one of Drouhinâs best 2017 reds. âEveryone in Burgundy is smiling again,â VĂ©ronique Drouhin began, her own smile undisguised. âThe 2017 vintage is the first vintage overseen by our new vineyard manager, Jullien Pallisse. It was warmer and drier than normal, with 200 hours more sunshine than usual. There was a little less rain. February and March were warmer, so bud-break started early. The one problem was the mange Bouchon, which you canât do much about unless you have chickens. OĂŻdium was easy to control. April was cold again from the 18th but there was incredible solidarity, with growers helping each other, lighting bales of hay when there was a risk of frost. This was very efficient in obscuring the sunlight the following morning, just for 30 to 60 [crucial] minutes. We also put every candle we could find in the vineyard, except in Chablis. The vĂ©raison started at the end of July and finished at the end of August, the Chardonnay starting before the Pinot Noir. There was excellent maturity in the grapes. The acidity is low but there was hardly any malic acidity.â The harvest kicked off in the CĂŽte de Beaune on September 1 and the CĂŽte de Nuits six days later. Most of the reds underwent a three-week cuvaison, whilst Drouhin practiced less bĂątonnage for the whites since they felt that the lees were of good quality. The wines are aged in 30% new oak for most of the whites and reds. Many of the whites were bottled in July 2018, though the top Premier and Grand Crus remain in barrel up until the end of the year. Tasting through over 40 wines, it is clear that there is much to enjoy courtesy of Drouhin this year, and not only amongst their bevy of Premier and Grand Crus. Their whites are particularly strong and I would single out the Chassagne-Montrachet EmbazĂ©es, Meursault Charmes and Puligny-Montrachet Village as worthy of serious consideration. The reds also offer their fair share of delights, such as the Beaune Sizies, Vosne-RomanĂ©e 1er Cru (a blend of three outstanding climats) and a serious Chambolle Les Amoureuses, among the best I encountered."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-BĂšze Grand Cru includes 40% whole cluster fruit and contains both estate and purchased fruit. It has a lovely bouquet of dark berry fruit laced with bergamot and undergrowth aromas, beautifully defined, with real PinotĂ© shining through. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit. There is wonderful balance here, and a subtle spiciness comes through on the finish. This is one of Drouhinâs best 2017 reds. âEveryone in Burgundy is smiling again,â VĂ©ronique Drouhin began, her own smile undisguised. âThe 2017 vintage is the first vintage overseen by our new vineyard manager, Jullien Pallisse. It was warmer and drier than normal, with 200 hours more sunshine than usual. There was a little less rain. February and March were warmer, so bud-break started early. The one problem was the mange Bouchon, which you canât do much about unless you have chickens. OĂŻdium was easy to control. April was cold again from the 18th but there was incredible solidarity, with growers helping each other, lighting bales of hay when there was a risk of frost. This was very efficient in obscuring the sunlight the following morning, just for 30 to 60 [crucial] minutes. We also put every candle we could find in the vineyard, except in Chablis. The vĂ©raison started at the end of July and finished at the end of August, the Chardonnay starting before the Pinot Noir. There was excellent maturity in the grapes. The acidity is low but there was hardly any malic acidity.â The harvest kicked off in the CĂŽte de Beaune on September 1 and the CĂŽte de Nuits six days later. Most of the reds underwent a three-week cuvaison, whilst Drouhin practiced less bĂątonnage for the whites since they felt that the lees were of good quality. The wines are aged in 30% new oak for most of the whites and reds. Many of the whites were bottled in July 2018, though the top Premier and Grand Crus remain in barrel up until the end of the year. Tasting through over 40 wines, it is clear that there is much to enjoy courtesy of Drouhin this year, and not only amongst their bevy of Premier and Grand Crus. Their whites are particularly strong and I would single out the Chassagne-Montrachet EmbazĂ©es, Meursault Charmes and Puligny-Montrachet Village as worthy of serious consideration. The reds also offer their fair share of delights, such as the Beaune Sizies, Vosne-RomanĂ©e 1er Cru (a blend of three outstanding climats) and a serious Chambolle Les Amoureuses, among the best I encountered."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
The Cote de Nuits' largest Grand Cru commune, producing powerful, structured and deeply flavored Pinot Noir built for long aging.
2017 in Burgundy delivered generous yields and fresh, elegant wines; the whites are especially fine, bright and precise, while the reds are charming, supple and aromatic, drinking well relatively early.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.