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The May 2023 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 251
Estimate: $200
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Collection name
Reviews
91WA
"The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes offers up aromas of sweet wild berries, peonies, plums, orange rind and exotic spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that's deep and concentrated, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. It's a real success. Arnaud Mortet, it must be said, doesn't number among Burgundy's most alacritous correspondents. So when my request to visit last year went unanswered, I didn't take it personally. This year, we caught up on some bottled 2019s and barrel samples of 2020s, while Arnaud recovered from the arduous La PaulĂŠe de Meursault the day before. Everything seems to be in place at this address: thoughtful viticulture, with cultivated soils, high hedging (at 1.50 meters, more or less the limit of an over-row tractor) and thoughtful rather than systematic deleafing is followed by winemaking that increasingly emphasizes manually processed grapes, with the rachis of each cluster cut out by hand, leaving berries on their pedicels intact. In the cellar, François Frères is ceding ground to Cavinâbut without any concomitant shift in style in the direction of the overtly meretricious. In profile, the wines are supple and perfumed, with plenty of depth and flesh at the core, without any structural asperity. They're wines that could be drunk youngâas no doubt they are drunk by many consumers todayâbut which will age with grace too. In short, Mortet is at the top of his game today and settled into his contemporary style, and everything reviewed here comes recommended."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes offers up aromas of sweet wild berries, peonies, plums, orange rind and exotic spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that's deep and concentrated, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. It's a real success. Arnaud Mortet, it must be said, doesn't number among Burgundy's most alacritous correspondents. So when my request to visit last year went unanswered, I didn't take it personally. This year, we caught up on some bottled 2019s and barrel samples of 2020s, while Arnaud recovered from the arduous La PaulĂŠe de Meursault the day before. Everything seems to be in place at this address: thoughtful viticulture, with cultivated soils, high hedging (at 1.50 meters, more or less the limit of an over-row tractor) and thoughtful rather than systematic deleafing is followed by winemaking that increasingly emphasizes manually processed grapes, with the rachis of each cluster cut out by hand, leaving berries on their pedicels intact. In the cellar, François Frères is ceding ground to Cavinâbut without any concomitant shift in style in the direction of the overtly meretricious. In profile, the wines are supple and perfumed, with plenty of depth and flesh at the core, without any structural asperity. They're wines that could be drunk youngâas no doubt they are drunk by many consumers todayâbut which will age with grace too. In short, Mortet is at the top of his game today and settled into his contemporary style, and everything reviewed here comes recommended."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
The Cote de Nuits' largest Grand Cru commune, producing powerful, structured and deeply flavored Pinot Noir built for long aging.
2019 in Burgundy combined spring frost and summer drought to cut yields, producing concentrated yet balanced wines; the reds are ripe and structured with retained freshness, making an excellent, ageworthy vintage in both colors.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.