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The June 2023 Auction: Part 1
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1 / 2Lot 362
Estimate: $325
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Collection name
Reviews
95-97NM
"The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is quite closed on the nose, offering discreet blackberry, raspberry and light violet aromas that you might mistake for a Vosne-RomanĂ©e. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. This is a juicy Clos de Vougeot, a little savory and quite peppery on the finish, which you might misconstrue as a result of some stem addition. Sculpted with Jean-Nicolas MĂ©o's finest chisel, this is a wonderful Clos de Vougeot. As usual, Jean-Nicolas MĂ©o was on hand to guide me through practically the entirety of his 2019s from the domaine and nĂ©goce side of their operation. MĂ©o pointed out, they have complete viticulture and winemaking control on the cuvĂ©es. I commenced with a couple of whites. âThe Chardonnay was extremely ripe in 2019,â MĂ©o remarked. âI had to harvest the Clos St. Philibert during the red harvest instead of afterwards as I usually do. I was watching the Chardonnay all the time. It was only in the ten days days before picking that I realised how the ripeness was accelerating.â We then broached the series of reds. âWe harvested a week before we expected, commencing on 13 September. The extraction was quicker and better than the previous year and after the five-day cold soak the colour of the juice was already black. We had the acidity right at the beginning. The alcohol levels are around 14.0°, which is high, with a couple of cuvĂ©es at 14.5° and 14.6°. I would have preferred them to be a bit lower though some are around 13.2°. Until I tasted the 2019s after the 2020 harvest, I did not know how the wines would show but I find they express the terroir and they are less super-ripe than anticipated. I think it is superior to 2018 due to the 2019s greater structure and better acidity levels. They are not as light as they might be, but the aromatics are very attractive and I donât feel they are too heavy or over-the-top. I would rate it a bit below 2015, but vintages like this are difficult to predict. It might evolve like 2009 and then we will have a great vintage. Or they could shut down.â This was an impressive set of 2019s crowned by the usual suspects, Cros Parantoux, Richebourg and Premier Crus such as a show-stopping Aux BrĂ»lĂ©es. Do not ignore one of a number of outstanding Clos Vougeot in 2019 and a noble Nuits Saint-Georges Les Murgers (I would draw your attention to a heavenly 1959 poured by MĂ©o at a La PaulĂ©e almost a year earlier that I included in my 1959 article on Vinous."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is quite closed on the nose, offering discreet blackberry, raspberry and light violet aromas that you might mistake for a Vosne-RomanĂ©e. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins. This is a juicy Clos de Vougeot, a little savory and quite peppery on the finish, which you might misconstrue as a result of some stem addition. Sculpted with Jean-Nicolas MĂ©o's finest chisel, this is a wonderful Clos de Vougeot. As usual, Jean-Nicolas MĂ©o was on hand to guide me through practically the entirety of his 2019s from the domaine and nĂ©goce side of their operation. MĂ©o pointed out, they have complete viticulture and winemaking control on the cuvĂ©es. I commenced with a couple of whites. âThe Chardonnay was extremely ripe in 2019,â MĂ©o remarked. âI had to harvest the Clos St. Philibert during the red harvest instead of afterwards as I usually do. I was watching the Chardonnay all the time. It was only in the ten days days before picking that I realised how the ripeness was accelerating.â We then broached the series of reds. âWe harvested a week before we expected, commencing on 13 September. The extraction was quicker and better than the previous year and after the five-day cold soak the colour of the juice was already black. We had the acidity right at the beginning. The alcohol levels are around 14.0°, which is high, with a couple of cuvĂ©es at 14.5° and 14.6°. I would have preferred them to be a bit lower though some are around 13.2°. Until I tasted the 2019s after the 2020 harvest, I did not know how the wines would show but I find they express the terroir and they are less super-ripe than anticipated. I think it is superior to 2018 due to the 2019s greater structure and better acidity levels. They are not as light as they might be, but the aromatics are very attractive and I donât feel they are too heavy or over-the-top. I would rate it a bit below 2015, but vintages like this are difficult to predict. It might evolve like 2009 and then we will have a great vintage. Or they could shut down.â This was an impressive set of 2019s crowned by the usual suspects, Cros Parantoux, Richebourg and Premier Crus such as a show-stopping Aux BrĂ»lĂ©es. Do not ignore one of a number of outstanding Clos Vougeot in 2019 and a noble Nuits Saint-Georges Les Murgers (I would draw your attention to a heavenly 1959 poured by MĂ©o at a La PaulĂ©e almost a year earlier that I included in my 1959 article on Vinous."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
2019 in Burgundy combined spring frost and summer drought to cut yields, producing concentrated yet balanced wines; the reds are ripe and structured with retained freshness, making an excellent, ageworthy vintage in both colors.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.