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The June 2023 Auction: Part 4
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1 / 2Lot 1200
Estimate: $420
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Collection name
Reviews
96VM
"The 2009 Alzero Cabernet is a knockout, showing a captivating display of sour cherries, licorice and mint offset by mocha and hints of tobacco. This is elegance personified, as a velvety wave of sweet red and black fruits is further complemented by confectionary spices and contrasting notes of espresso and cacao. There is so much energy to be found within the 2009. It bristles with residual acids, minerals and sour citrus through the finale, while still showing a gorgeous inner sweetness through a note of ripe plums under an air of violets and lavender. This is so easy to like today that it’s hard to recommend waiting. However, there’s much more to be seen over time, and patience will be rewarded. The Alzero Cabernet is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot dried prior to vinification through appassimento. Quintarelli, located within the Valpolicella Classica region on the hills above the town of Negrar, strives to respect the legend and traditions established by Giuseppe Quintarelli over a career that spanned 60 years. During that time, Quintarelli oversaw the work of many of the region's best modern-day winemakers. For vineyard managers, cellar assistants, and enologists, time spent within the hallowed walls of this winery and cellar was like a golden seal of approval in the winemaking circles of the Veneto. It was with this in mind that the current generation set forward, after Quintarelli’s passing in 2012, to continue to work with the teams of winemakers and assistants that had gained knowledge under his guidance and that of Roberto Ferrarini, the estate's trusted enologist, who also passed away in 2014. As readers can imagine, the loss of these two prominent figures meant that the current generation, led by Fiorenza Grigoli (Giuseppe's daughter), needed to quickly get a handle on all of the intricate details and practices that went into creating this portfolio. While speaking with Francesco Grigoli Quintarelli (Giuseppe's grandson), the assistant manager of the property, he spoke in detail about how they only wished to make slow and careful changes, which started to take place in 2009. These included a reduction in oxidation, better control over the use of sulfites and lowering the average percentage of alcohol in the wines. The goal was to create a crisper, more vivid expression of fruit. Otherwise, practices have remained the same. Vineyard management can be described as natural yet practical, intervening only when the vintage demands it; and while passive air-drying of the grapes is preferred, the family is also prepared to use mechanical means if necessary to safeguard the health of the fruit. As for the current vintages, they show terrific purity of fruit and also come across cleaner. That said, Grigoli told me that his next goal is to bring back a bit more of Giuseppe’s character to future vintages."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2009 Alzero Cabernet is a knockout, showing a captivating display of sour cherries, licorice and mint offset by mocha and hints of tobacco. This is elegance personified, as a velvety wave of sweet red and black fruits is further complemented by confectionary spices and contrasting notes of espresso and cacao. There is so much energy to be found within the 2009. It bristles with residual acids, minerals and sour citrus through the finale, while still showing a gorgeous inner sweetness through a note of ripe plums under an air of violets and lavender. This is so easy to like today that it’s hard to recommend waiting. However, there’s much more to be seen over time, and patience will be rewarded. The Alzero Cabernet is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 20% Merlot dried prior to vinification through appassimento. Quintarelli, located within the Valpolicella Classica region on the hills above the town of Negrar, strives to respect the legend and traditions established by Giuseppe Quintarelli over a career that spanned 60 years. During that time, Quintarelli oversaw the work of many of the region's best modern-day winemakers. For vineyard managers, cellar assistants, and enologists, time spent within the hallowed walls of this winery and cellar was like a golden seal of approval in the winemaking circles of the Veneto. It was with this in mind that the current generation set forward, after Quintarelli’s passing in 2012, to continue to work with the teams of winemakers and assistants that had gained knowledge under his guidance and that of Roberto Ferrarini, the estate's trusted enologist, who also passed away in 2014. As readers can imagine, the loss of these two prominent figures meant that the current generation, led by Fiorenza Grigoli (Giuseppe's daughter), needed to quickly get a handle on all of the intricate details and practices that went into creating this portfolio. While speaking with Francesco Grigoli Quintarelli (Giuseppe's grandson), the assistant manager of the property, he spoke in detail about how they only wished to make slow and careful changes, which started to take place in 2009. These included a reduction in oxidation, better control over the use of sulfites and lowering the average percentage of alcohol in the wines. The goal was to create a crisper, more vivid expression of fruit. Otherwise, practices have remained the same. Vineyard management can be described as natural yet practical, intervening only when the vintage demands it; and while passive air-drying of the grapes is preferred, the family is also prepared to use mechanical means if necessary to safeguard the health of the fruit. As for the current vintages, they show terrific purity of fruit and also come across cleaner. That said, Grigoli told me that his next goal is to bring back a bit more of Giuseppe’s character to future vintages."
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Italy grows more indigenous grape varieties than any other country and produces wine in all 20 of its regions. From Piedmont's Nebbiolo to Tuscany's Sangiovese, its finest wines pair structure and bright acidity with a strong sense of place.
A prolific northern region known for Amarone della Valpolicella, made from dried grapes, as well as Soave and Prosecco. Its finest reds are rich, warming and concentrated.
An aromatic red grape lending perfume, red fruit and a leafy, savory edge. It thrives in the Loire and as a key blending partner in Bordeaux, especially Saint-Emilion.
The world's most planted premium red grape, yielding deeply colored, tannic and structured wines with cassis, cedar and graphite notes. Firm tannins and acidity make it exceptionally age-worthy, whether as a varietal or the backbone of a Bordeaux blend.
Produces plush, supple, fruit-forward reds with plum and chocolate notes. Softer and earlier-maturing than Cabernet, it adds flesh and roundness to blends and stars in Right Bank Bordeaux.