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The October 2023 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 601
Estimate: $225
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Collection name
Reviews
92NM
"The 2018 Auxey-Duresses Village has more refinement and purity than the Meursault Rouge, offering gorgeous aromas of red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit with veins of blueberry. The palate is very powerful with huge grip for an Auxey-Duresses that will guarantee its longevity. Quite a masculine red in some ways but totally compelling. One of those wines to grab if you find it for a decent price on a restaurant list, and for me personally, preferable to the aforementioned Meursault. Coche-Dury was one of a handful of Domaines that seemed to make an effort in terms of Covid safety, though the fact that RaphaĂ«l Cocheâs head bobbed above the protective screen probably left the virus bemused. There has been a good deal of construction work at the Domaine in recent years, and instead of the barrel cellar, we tasted in a new, but unfinished high-ceiling tasting room adjacent to the winery. As is customary, the present vintage is not shown in barrel, rather the latest vintage in bottle, though even here for some reason a couple of 2018 cuvĂ©es were omitted. âAt the beginning of August there was a storm, but Meursault did not suffer too badly,â he explained. âThe warmth of the growing seasons can be a shock to the vines. The heat was brutal yet there was no doubt of hydric stress. It was not as dry as in 2019. We began the picking on 9 September, an early harvest, though I have no regrets about that. It was a generous harvest but not excessive, the combination of old vines and millerandage reducing the crop. It was a serene and quite rapid fermentation. The barrels are rotated every two years and so in 2018 we used barrels from the 2016 vintage. That was a small harvest [because of frost] so we bought wine from the MĂąconnais in order to use these new barrels and not have an excess of new oak in 2018. It was a good decision. I find great maturity in the reds with high polyphenols, but the tannins do not show and there is no astringency. I gave them a slightly longer cuvaison, just one or one and a half days more. What is difficult to understand is that the wines did not undergo a lot of extraction but in the end they have so much structure.â No producer is beyond criticism. However, even from the entry-level Bourgogne Blanc, you step back in wonder at these exquisite wines. Forget the market price. The wines deliver. They have an additional layer of complexity that can rivet you to the spot âŠ. RaphaĂ«l has his old manâs magic touch in the vineyard and winery.â
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2018 Auxey-Duresses Village has more refinement and purity than the Meursault Rouge, offering gorgeous aromas of red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit with veins of blueberry. The palate is very powerful with huge grip for an Auxey-Duresses that will guarantee its longevity. Quite a masculine red in some ways but totally compelling. One of those wines to grab if you find it for a decent price on a restaurant list, and for me personally, preferable to the aforementioned Meursault. Coche-Dury was one of a handful of Domaines that seemed to make an effort in terms of Covid safety, though the fact that RaphaĂ«l Cocheâs head bobbed above the protective screen probably left the virus bemused. There has been a good deal of construction work at the Domaine in recent years, and instead of the barrel cellar, we tasted in a new, but unfinished high-ceiling tasting room adjacent to the winery. As is customary, the present vintage is not shown in barrel, rather the latest vintage in bottle, though even here for some reason a couple of 2018 cuvĂ©es were omitted. âAt the beginning of August there was a storm, but Meursault did not suffer too badly,â he explained. âThe warmth of the growing seasons can be a shock to the vines. The heat was brutal yet there was no doubt of hydric stress. It was not as dry as in 2019. We began the picking on 9 September, an early harvest, though I have no regrets about that. It was a generous harvest but not excessive, the combination of old vines and millerandage reducing the crop. It was a serene and quite rapid fermentation. The barrels are rotated every two years and so in 2018 we used barrels from the 2016 vintage. That was a small harvest [because of frost] so we bought wine from the MĂąconnais in order to use these new barrels and not have an excess of new oak in 2018. It was a good decision. I find great maturity in the reds with high polyphenols, but the tannins do not show and there is no astringency. I gave them a slightly longer cuvaison, just one or one and a half days more. What is difficult to understand is that the wines did not undergo a lot of extraction but in the end they have so much structure.â No producer is beyond criticism. However, even from the entry-level Bourgogne Blanc, you step back in wonder at these exquisite wines. Forget the market price. The wines deliver. They have an additional layer of complexity that can rivet you to the spot âŠ. RaphaĂ«l has his old manâs magic touch in the vineyard and winery.â
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
2018 in Burgundy was hot and dry with a large crop, producing ripe, rich and powerful reds of generous fruit; the whites are full-bodied but require care, as some show lower acidity.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.