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The December 2023 Auction: Part 3
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1 / 2Lot 335
Estimate: $70
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Collection name
Reviews
92-94NM
"The 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Roncière is from the brothers’ 0.97 hectare of vines. It has a tightly knit bouquet with superb mineralité – wet limestone, sea spray and strawberry pastilles. The palate is clean and fresh with a crisp tannin lattice and then it unties its bodice, lets it all flow on the more rounded, sumptuous Morello, raspberry leaf and blood orange. Wonderful. 'You were supposed to be here at two o’clock,' admonished Bertrand Chevillon upon my entering his courtyard at 2.20pm. I resorted to the wine critic’s equivalent of the schoolboy’s default excuse 'The dog ate my homework'; replying that 'The Satnav had sent me in the wrong direction'. Which is true incidentally. For despite tasting, writing about and admiring this domaine’s wines since the late 1990s, this was the first time that I have visited. Chevillon might well be the appellation’s benchmark producer, especially since the ‘lesser-spotted’ Denis and Bertrand Chevillon took over the entire running of the estate from their father in 2000. They tap into the essence of their enviable holdings year on year, wines not just driven by power or complexity, but by their sheer force of personality. As Bertrand’s large frame flitted around the barrel cellar, gathering momentum as we scaled the heights of his premier crus, he enthused about the vintage’s innate ability to express the uniqueness of their terroir. If you require evidence that Nuits-Saint-Georges is long overdue its own grand cru (Les Saint Georges the shoo-in when I enquired) then take a look at these splendid 2012s that are destined to give so much joy over the next two decades. As usual, bunches were de-stemmed, underwent a pre-ferment maceration and matured with a prudent use of new oak, around 25-30%."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Roncière is from the brothers’ 0.97 hectare of vines. It has a tightly knit bouquet with superb mineralité – wet limestone, sea spray and strawberry pastilles. The palate is clean and fresh with a crisp tannin lattice and then it unties its bodice, lets it all flow on the more rounded, sumptuous Morello, raspberry leaf and blood orange. Wonderful. 'You were supposed to be here at two o’clock,' admonished Bertrand Chevillon upon my entering his courtyard at 2.20pm. I resorted to the wine critic’s equivalent of the schoolboy’s default excuse 'The dog ate my homework'; replying that 'The Satnav had sent me in the wrong direction'. Which is true incidentally. For despite tasting, writing about and admiring this domaine’s wines since the late 1990s, this was the first time that I have visited. Chevillon might well be the appellation’s benchmark producer, especially since the ‘lesser-spotted’ Denis and Bertrand Chevillon took over the entire running of the estate from their father in 2000. They tap into the essence of their enviable holdings year on year, wines not just driven by power or complexity, but by their sheer force of personality. As Bertrand’s large frame flitted around the barrel cellar, gathering momentum as we scaled the heights of his premier crus, he enthused about the vintage’s innate ability to express the uniqueness of their terroir. If you require evidence that Nuits-Saint-Georges is long overdue its own grand cru (Les Saint Georges the shoo-in when I enquired) then take a look at these splendid 2012s that are destined to give so much joy over the next two decades. As usual, bunches were de-stemmed, underwent a pre-ferment maceration and matured with a prudent use of new oak, around 25-30%."
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The world's most influential fine-wine producer and the benchmark for Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne and the Rhone. Its appellation (AOC) system codifies geography, grape and method, and its wines set the global standard for age-worthiness and terroir expression.
Produces the world's most revered Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a mosaic of tiny, terroir-defined climats. Its hierarchy of village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards makes site the ultimate expression of quality.
A thin-skinned, terroir-sensitive red producing perfumed, silky and elegant wines of red-berry fruit and earthy complexity. It reaches its apogee in Burgundy.