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The December 2024 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 3581
Estimate: $110
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Collection name
Reviews
93+WA
"From the freshly opened bottle, the 2015 Riesling Elsarner Brandstatt is deep and super clear and fresh on the nose and shows dusty chalk and herbal flavors along with an intense aroma of ripe white stone fruits and a hint of mocha flavors. Round, clear and very precise on the palate, this is an aromatic and juicy but pure and salty Riesling with great precision and good density. It is super well-balanced and very persistent and shows an excellent grip. The wine is even better from an almost emptied bottle that has been opened the day before. Intense and clear on the nose, again with these seedy mocha bean flavors, this wine is very pure, fresh and vital on the palate and reveals a great finesse, mineral intensity and tension, but also great elegance. Great grip, very long. This is a Grand Cru from partly young, partly old vines. It is much more complex than the sample I had from the barrel two months ago. Peter Veyder-Malberg remains a pioneer in the postmodern Wachau, although there are still not that many producers following his road toward terroir expression. Whereas the famous Vinea Wachau still serves its established wine quality categories Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd, Peter has never been interested in classifying his wines according to must weights or alcohol levels. ‘I prefer the Burgundian system and want to reflect the different terroirs in my wines and I can't see the point why a 12% alcohol wine from a coolish top vineyard should be less valuable than a 13 or 13.5% wine from a warmer top vineyard. I think in times of global warming physiological ripeness is not the point. Our grapes become ripe in almost every vintage, even in a difficult one like 2014.’ Peter Veyder-Malberg, whose excellent 2015s I tasted from the barrels in early April for issue 225, have been bottled on April 13 and I tasted them again at VieVinum in June (from a Chianti glass instead of Zalto's exceptional Burgundy glass two months earlier at the domaine). Peter's 2015s had a shorter maceration than in former years due to a low pH of 3.1. The slow pressing started after two or three hours but went up to an additional eight hours and includes two passes."
Region
White
Country
Score
"From the freshly opened bottle, the 2015 Riesling Elsarner Brandstatt is deep and super clear and fresh on the nose and shows dusty chalk and herbal flavors along with an intense aroma of ripe white stone fruits and a hint of mocha flavors. Round, clear and very precise on the palate, this is an aromatic and juicy but pure and salty Riesling with great precision and good density. It is super well-balanced and very persistent and shows an excellent grip. The wine is even better from an almost emptied bottle that has been opened the day before. Intense and clear on the nose, again with these seedy mocha bean flavors, this wine is very pure, fresh and vital on the palate and reveals a great finesse, mineral intensity and tension, but also great elegance. Great grip, very long. This is a Grand Cru from partly young, partly old vines. It is much more complex than the sample I had from the barrel two months ago. Peter Veyder-Malberg remains a pioneer in the postmodern Wachau, although there are still not that many producers following his road toward terroir expression. Whereas the famous Vinea Wachau still serves its established wine quality categories Steinfeder, Federspiel and Smaragd, Peter has never been interested in classifying his wines according to must weights or alcohol levels. ‘I prefer the Burgundian system and want to reflect the different terroirs in my wines and I can't see the point why a 12% alcohol wine from a coolish top vineyard should be less valuable than a 13 or 13.5% wine from a warmer top vineyard. I think in times of global warming physiological ripeness is not the point. Our grapes become ripe in almost every vintage, even in a difficult one like 2014.’ Peter Veyder-Malberg, whose excellent 2015s I tasted from the barrels in early April for issue 225, have been bottled on April 13 and I tasted them again at VieVinum in June (from a Chianti glass instead of Zalto's exceptional Burgundy glass two months earlier at the domaine). Peter's 2015s had a shorter maceration than in former years due to a low pH of 3.1. The slow pressing started after two or three hours but went up to an additional eight hours and includes two passes."
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A highly aromatic white of piercing acidity and transparency to terroir, ranging from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. It ages remarkably and is the noble grape of Germany and Alsace.