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The November 2026 Auction: Part 2
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1 / 2Lot 1727
Estimate: $85
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Reviews
90WA
"The 2020 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is surprisingly bright and lifted, with scents of rhubarb, blood orange, bergamot and Angostura bitters. The light-bodied palate is delicate, soft and juicy, with a satisfying, spicy finish . . . . I visited Kosta Browne to taste the 2019s and a few 2020s with winemaker Julien Howsepian. Due to the wildfires, production in 2020 was down about 60% in the Russian River Valley, and Kosta Browne will not be able to release their usual 35,000-42,000 cases. However, the brand was able to pivotâbecause they are owned by the Duckhorn company, they were able to source more fruit from the Sta. Rita Hills and the Anderson Valley. "The fires started early, on August 17," Howsepian remembered. "It had been an amazing growing season; the flavors developed much earlier than they did in 2019. We were able to get a lot of fruit off the vine very quickly. We picked a lot of fruit but not everything." Lots were kept separate in the winery, and a committee of winemakers across the Duckhorn portfolio came together to taste the wines and assess potential impact from the smoke. "It has to be the same quality as always," Howsepian emphasized. "We did rigorous testing and tasted many times. But testing numbers don't really say much." Most of the 2020s were still in barrel when I visited, but there are some appellation wines included in this report. Although I didn't perceive any smokiness in these wines, consumers should consider drinking these 2020s on the early side, since the impact from smoke sometimes takes months or years to appear in the bottled wine."
Region
Red
Country
Score
"The 2020 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is surprisingly bright and lifted, with scents of rhubarb, blood orange, bergamot and Angostura bitters. The light-bodied palate is delicate, soft and juicy, with a satisfying, spicy finish . . . . I visited Kosta Browne to taste the 2019s and a few 2020s with winemaker Julien Howsepian. Due to the wildfires, production in 2020 was down about 60% in the Russian River Valley, and Kosta Browne will not be able to release their usual 35,000-42,000 cases. However, the brand was able to pivotâbecause they are owned by the Duckhorn company, they were able to source more fruit from the Sta. Rita Hills and the Anderson Valley. "The fires started early, on August 17," Howsepian remembered. "It had been an amazing growing season; the flavors developed much earlier than they did in 2019. We were able to get a lot of fruit off the vine very quickly. We picked a lot of fruit but not everything." Lots were kept separate in the winery, and a committee of winemakers across the Duckhorn portfolio came together to taste the wines and assess potential impact from the smoke. "It has to be the same quality as always," Howsepian emphasized. "We did rigorous testing and tasted many times. But testing numbers don't really say much." Most of the 2020s were still in barrel when I visited, but there are some appellation wines included in this report. Although I didn't perceive any smokiness in these wines, consumers should consider drinking these 2020s on the early side, since the impact from smoke sometimes takes months or years to appear in the bottled wine."
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The fourth-largest wine producer in the world, led by California. American fine wine is defined by ripe, expressive fruit and a spirit of innovation, with Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon among the most sought-after wines globally.
A large, geographically varied California region producing cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay near the coast and richer Zinfandel and Cabernet inland. Its wines range from elegant to bold.
A cool, fog-influenced Sonoma AVA renowned for elegant, complex Pinot Noir and rich, balanced Chardonnay.
Pinot Noir is a thin-skinned red grape celebrated for aromatic detail, silky texture and sensitivity to its growing site. Cherry and strawberry are familiar flavors, often accompanied by floral notes and, with maturity, earthy or forest-floor complexity. Its wines are commonly light to medium in body, with freshness and fine tannins that can give a sense of delicacy alongside considerable depth. Burgundy is Pinot Noir's historic home and a benchmark for the grape. There, differences in soil, slope and exposure can produce distinct expressions from neighboring vineyards, making Pinot Noir central to the region's emphasis on terroir. Beyond Burgundy, cooler growing regions have developed their own interpretations, including Australia's Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula and Tasmania. Pinot Noir can produce fresh, fruit-focused wines for earlier enjoyment as well as more structured examples that gain complexity with age. Vineyard conditions and choices in fermentation and oak aging influence its balance of perfume, fruit and savory character. Its appeal lies in nuance and the way a single grape can communicate the individuality of a place.